Cabin Fever

Hurricane Irene passed over head today, but we fortunately made it to a hotel just in time. We ended up having to stay here all day as torrential rain and wind raged outside. Luckily, this is one of those hotels with a restaurant/bar and a list of movie to rent...yea, we watched THREE today...That's more movies than I've seen in six months. It was a lazy day but very needed. I hate that this storm had to hit while my dad met me, but it has still been so fun to be together.

There has been some pretty extreme flooding across the Connecticut River Valley, and locals are saying they haven't seen stuff like this since 1985. Rivers are cresting left and right, and everyone at the hotel is stuck with flooded roads to our east and west. We are staying another night in the hotel. However, the weather is suppose to be very pretty tomorrow and flooding already peaked. We'll see what kind of shape the trails are in. It's all part of the adventure...onward and northward!

Escaping a Hurricane in The Whites

Dad and I had a great time hanging out in town and getting our gear ready to hit the Whites. We parked at the southern end, Franconia Notch, and started the long, grueling hike up into the mountains. The fog hung low, and we entered it within the first hour of hiking. We had hoped to make it further the first day, but the rain pinned us down below treeline at 2pm. We were confined to our tents with reading and napping...I'll admit, it was a much needed break for me. The next morning, we packed up and finished the insane bouldery climb up to Franconia Ridge above treeline in the fog. As we traversed, the clouds began to break offering endless views as if we were in a plane above the clouds. It was a surreal experience. The clouds slowly faded away to beautiful blue skies the rest of the day. We were so thankful.

The trail got increasingly more difficult with massive boulder-strewn climbs of 1,000+ feet or more. It was impossible to hold more than a 1/2 mph at times or you would surely break an ankle. My dad did some crushing miles as if he were half his age...I was continuously impressed with his endurance and speed over such exhausting terrain.

As we hiked, the word spread of Hurricane Irene having a greater chance of hitting us directly. A mandatory evacuation spread throughout the mountain range and even the rangers were leaving. There was talk of 100+ mph winds on the summits, certain blowdowns and impassible streams, and no hope of search and rescue if something were to happen. Of course, being the stubborn males that we are, it took me and dad a while to finally decide we should head out too. We hiked a brutal 17 miles today over staircases of rocks to make it to a road. My dad never skipped a beat, but we were truly exhausted when we hit the highway at dusk. It took 30 minutes in the dark before I could wave down a car to get us out of there. A nice guy picked us up and we made it to a hotel tonight just in time ( thanks Matt!) The hurricane is projected to pass right over us...just a few miles south of Mt. Washington: "the worst weather on Earth!" If we hadn't been able to get out, we would have been in seriously trouble. It's nice to have an unexpected hotel stay with a good hiking buddy. I'll keep you updated on how our plans change, but we are safe for now. What a day...

Catching My Dad in New Hampshire

Hanover, NH was a great little stop on my venture north, and I would probably say it's my favorite "trail town" so far. The criteria: trail goes directly through town (check), good places to eat (check), available and free internet (check), good places to stay (double check), and friendly and helpful people (check). I was obviously pleased with the places to stay aspect as I stayed with Sally, an almost retired nurse and phenomenal watercolor painter. She cooked me dinner and a tasty blueberry pancake and eggs breakfast all from the kindness of her heart. She wouldn't even accept payment! It's really the people you remember. At least it will be for me.

The past few days have been a big haul and strain on my body. With 23, 27, and 18 mile days over the start of the Whites, I'll be the first to say...I'm tired. The rocks started to amp up again like in Pennsylvania but instead like car-sized boulders you have to climb over and around. Throw in some mud and elevation change, and you've got a pretty hard day of hiking. Mt. Moosilauke was the first above treeline peak in the Whites. It was a lot of work to get up and over but oh so worth it. There were stunning 360 views to the south and to the Whites in the north. It reminded me of the 14ers in Colorado I'd climbed...see people! The East has mountains too!

With all the hard hiking, relief was just over the next ridge. After some cell coverage issues, I finally connected with my dad! He picked me up on the side of the interstate like a homeless guy (beard and all...). We ate dinner at a great little tavern and drank dark beer in the cool mountain air on the outdoor patio. We then drove to Walmart not only buy more food than we could carry but also to find the same rednecks in a New Hampshire Walmart as in Tennessee. Tonight was spent packing, catching up, and sipping on Octoberfest. Im at mile marker 1808.5, leaving 372.5 until Mt. Katahdin in Maine, the final summit. I'm so excited for the next few days not only for the great scenery and a toned down pace but to spend some quality time my dad.

Hanover, NH: Home of Dartmouth

The past few days of hiking through Vermont have been really pleasant with amazing spruce forests all around. The pine needles make the trail soft, almost like carpet. The trails in this state are notoriously muddy and all the rumors were true. I have been hiking in the same Merrell shoes since Pearisburg, VA...that's over 1,100 miles ago! I've been impressed with the beating they have taken, but after all this mud, it's time for a new pair.

The weather has been absolutely perfect for hiking: long sleeves at night and morning and cool air throughout the day. I couldn't ask for better. I've been listening to my iPod more than normal because I have discovered the wonderful world of podcasts. I have been listening to the Google podcast, Stuff You Should Know podcast, Muscle Balance and Function podcast...so many good ones out there. There is great free stuff to download, and I love learning about new things WHILE I'm hiking...it's brilliant.

Today was the final day of Vermont, and of course I had to leave as I entered...soaked in rain. I've been hiking more miles than average the past week or so to make it to meet my dad on Wednesday. I came into town this afternoon after hiking an exhausting up and down 25 miles. The first house on the street had a cooler of food out with a list of numbers of people to call for a place to stay!...a dream come true for a wet and tired hiker. I called Sally (not even knowing who that is) and she came and picked me up. Next thing I know, I am taking a warm shower and being fed a salad and Ravioli by a complete stranger! Apparently this town has a pretty extensive "trail angel" network. I feel very honored to be taken in my Sally tonight, and I am looking forward to a bed and a roof over my head (that isn't a shelter). Right now, I am on the Dartmouth campus using their computers, and Sally is over at the university theater seeing a film.

I am meeting my dad at Franconia Notch at the beginning of the White Mountain in NH. From Hanover, it is about 70 miles away, and I need to crunch that distance in 2.5 days. We'll see how that goes...

Quick Update: Manchester Center, VT

Just a quick update while I have wireless. I left Bennington, VT in the misting rain. Hitching hiking was a challenge because who wants to pick up a wet hiker?! The rain finally stopped in late morning and it turned into a pleasant day. Vermont is strangely familiar to the Smokies, especially in the upper elevations. Last night it rained only enough to make everything wet again. I packed up my wet tent this morning and made it to Manchester Center, VT. On the way, I crossed over Stratton Mountain which gave excellent 360 views of the mountain ranges and ski resorts. I'm completely out of food, so I'm taking a few hours in town to resupply and eat a meal. I hiked 21 miles today and will hike 2 more to the next shelter. I have to do 20+ in order to make it to meet my dad by next week, so I hope I make it! I'm on the final stretch of the trip, and I'm excited for the terrain coming up.

Over and out.

CT Challenge and Entering VT

Since NYC, I've covered some ground and passed through some states. With the rest I got from being in NYC, I thought about doing the Connecticut challenge: completing the entire AT through the state, 45 miles, in one day. Before you call me crazy, I'll explain. I hiked up to the NY/CT border and set up my tent. 5 hours later, my alarm went off at 3:30am. I packed up camp and hit the trail by 4am. Night hiking in the morning (or anytime for that matter) isn't too fun, but the sun quickly rose through the Connecticut fog. I hiked...and hiked...and hiked all through the day. I made a quick stop at mile 21 for lunch, then pressed on to the border. At around 3pm, the rain started and decided to join me the rest of the way. It was a mental and physical workout to make it the whole way. The rain made the hiking harder, and I was already dead tired. I got to the CT/MA border at 9pm and immediately set up my tent. It felt good to complete the challenge and push myself to the limit. The day after wasn't as ambitious with only a 7 mile day! I guess that's why I'm doing the trail itself but little mini challenges are a mental boost. Alright, now you can call me crazy...

Massachusetts has been a beautiful state to hike through. There are lots of ponds, pines, and small towns. One of the highlights was Upper Goose Pond Cabin, a small cabin on a lake that had a caretaker who made pancakes in the morning! It was amazing and seemed like it was out of a movie.

I made it into Vermont today after conquering Mt. Greylock in Massachusetts. It rained all day and was one of the most challenging days yet. The mud and streams were out of control. I am staying at a free hostel in Bennington, VT. It's not advertised, and its kinda a word of mouth thing. A hot shower was needed for sure. Today marks the 3 month mark for my trip! I can't believe it. I'm looking forward to hiking with my dad next week and for Katahdin in a month!

Time Off in NYC pt. 2

Sunset and drinks on the rooftop.

I have been in the city since Friday afternoon, and I am heading back to the trail Monday morning. I have had more good food than I can even express. This city is an amazing place to eat, but it's exponentially greater when you've been thru-hiking for 2.5 months. Friday night we ate at a pizza place and walked around the city a bit. Saturday we hit up an incredible bagel place and hung out at Luke and Jess's apartment for a while (watching LOST!).

We stopped by Luke's office to see where the magic happens and saw some more sites and the NYC farmer's market. Sunday we walked downtown all the way to the end of Manhattan and saw the Statue of Liberty, along with the financial district. New York is incredibly entertaining, but not as much as watching Gary almost fall over every time the subway lurches forward.

Gary, Jess, and Luke walking near Battery Park downtown

Gary and I discussing the current US economic crisis next to the NY Stock Exchange

This has been an incredible time off, but I am ready to tackle some more miles. Julie, my sister, and mom sent me wonderful packages of food, so I am ready to enter Connecticut in the next day or two with a well-stocked supply. The concrete jungle is infinitely different than the trail, but a break from the woods was nice. I am ready to hit New England!

Time Off in NYC

I have made it through New Jersey in three days and was pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the hiking (well...the first part). The trail followed a ridge top with great views of the New Jersey valley below. At one point I had stopped at a ridge peak that was exposed on a rocky outcropping. I was eating a snack and suddenly a glider plane came soaring by the peak within a 100 feet or so from me. It almost scared me because it was RIGHT over my head and was completely silent other than the air noise rushing past me. It was quite a sight, and I sat up there with a day hiker watching the glider come flying past the mountain several times. The pilot seemed very skilled at catching the drafts and actually gaining significant altitude with every pass. That night I camped on peak with an amazing New Jersey sunset.

I have crossed into New York which was a pretty sudden change in terrain. Right at the state line, the terrain changed to a rocky scrabble trail. It's actually pretty fun hiking with lots of craggy climbs and pretty views. Lots of ups and downs though. There has also been some pretty great "trail magic" in New Jersey and New York. Trail magic is just instances of kindness from strangers, mainly food: coolers with drinks on the trail, food and hiker picnics for free. It's really nice, and most trail magic is done by people who have thru-hiked in the past.

I took the train into NYC yesterday and have already enjoyed the city so much. Luke and Jess live in the Upper West Side right near Central Park. Walking outside of their apartment is an instant vast array of restaurants, coffee joints, and the crazy New York rush. It's a pretty stressful and amazing place. I feel like I could get hit by a car at any moment and no one would even notice. Here is a photo of a lake I camped out in New York state. It's called Island Pond, and it was one of the prettiest campsites so far...

I'll try and have another post up by the time I head back out to the trail...